Gianni Versace Retrospective "That Dress"

Hello, my fellow flâneur and flâneuses,

Today, we will cover the Gianni Versace Retrospective Exhibition, currently on display at ARCHES London Bridge. The exhibit features over 450 iconic pieces worn by high-profile individuals, such as Princess Diana of Wales and international supermodel Kate Moss. Walking into the Versace exhibit felt like walking into someone's fashion dream.

While reviewers have praised the selection and narrative, I noticed one detail that subtly changed my experience (mentally resulting in me not enjoying it as much).

The walls were adorned with draping garments featuring opulent and maximalist designs. Gold, leopard print, neon, mythology, and art. It was sensory overload in the best way possible—the kind of beauty that demands attention. However, this demand could be a curse in disguise, making the viewer scrutinize the pieces and lose the fantasy. The pieces, though stunning, aren't properly steamed, a small but telling detail that breaks the fantasy and dulls an otherwise brilliant curation. What I found most interesting is how, even in the advertisement videos, you see what seem to be creases in the pieces. I only noticed the flaws afterward because I was looking for them, given the apparent creases in some of the pieces in real life, which is just a personal flaw resulting from my own OCD.

Nevertheless, the exhibition was well-curated.

Elizabeth Hurley in the famed Versace safety pin dress in 1994.

Among the collection, I gravitated toward the safety pin dress—perhaps Versace's infamous piece. From the Spring/Summer 1994 collection, the dress is a bold architectural statement: a black silk gown held together by oversized gold safety pins. First worn by Elizabeth Hurley, it redefined red-carpet wear for future generations, transforming a single garment into a cultural phenomenon. The dress became so famous that it now holds its own Wikipedia page, referred to as "that dress." The dress was initially criticized by journalists, who described it as lewd and revealing. However, like Elizabeth Hurley stated, "unlike many other designers, Versace designs clothes to celebrate the female form rather than eliminate it."

Standing in front of the dress, I realized that Gianni Versace's legacy isn't just about flashy prints or over-the-top glamour—it's about showcasing your own individuality. Every pin, every pattern, every dramatic cut feels like a reminder that fashion should make you feel powerful, bold, and a little bit dangerous.

The safety pin dress, once called lewd, now feels like a reclamation of the female gaze. In a way, Versace allows the flâneuse to exist—to take up space, to be seen on her own terms. As I walked through the exhibition, I realized that Versace's vision gives the modern woman the same privilege the flâneur had: to move through the world not as an object of observation, but as its author.

XOXO till next time, my fellow flâneurs~